TOUR DE CHOW: Golden Chopsticks Restaurant Review
Located in a small shopping center off St. Mary’s road, the utilitarian storefront has only a dim, yellow sign that seems modest with its soft neon glow. Inside, the atmosphere is subtle and relaxing. Curious Korean trinkets and framed awards line the walls giving homage to life in Korea, and telling the story of Golden Chopsticks and its bond with Columbus.
Quiet mandolins and the whistling of a green tea kettle have a calming effect and feel inviting when entering this place. Those who have never had Golden Chopsticks should consider themselves lucky, for the throes of food addiction are no laughing matter.
Golden Chopsticks has been serving quality Korean barbeque since the 1970s. Chef Qwan Lee attributes the longevity of the restaurant to the implementation of important culinary values like tireless discipline, rigorous conviction, and a steady passion for traditional Korean technique.
“Twelve to fifteen hour workdays are normal for us,” Lee said. “Korean barbeque restaurants are incredibly hard to run because of the amount of meticulous preparation required to operate each day.” With over eighty items to choose from and two completely different menus, it is no surprise that the preparation at Golden Chopsticks must be a nightmare for the kitchen. Nevertheless, they seem to have managed it for forty years without a hitch.
“We offer two unique dining experiences for the guests,” said Lee. “Most come for the dinner platters, which are great for the value, but many come to have Yakiniku.” Yakiniku is a cooking method where individuals gather around a hot grill and cook marinated meats.
There are many different marinades and meat cuts that may be used, and Golden Chopsticks offers six for its customers. “Traditionally,” added Lee, “you take the marinated meat and wrap it with crunchy lettuce and steamed rice, and that is how we serve it here.”
Dinner platters are a series of unrelenting waves of unbelievably delicious food. Simply order a dinner platter for two, and slowly ceramic and metal bowls full of vibrantly colored and beautifully prepared dishes begin filling the table to capacity. There is a mesmerizing effect as the plates begin to arrive, followed by a feeding frenzy that everyone in the room seems to partake in.
“My favorite dish here is the So Kalbi,” said Lee. “We take the highest quality short rib and trim the fat completely off, then marinate it with a very old recipe and grill it over an open flame.” Lee only eats the So Kalbi with his late mother’s Bok-Choy Kimchee recipe, one that has been handed down through the generations. “I think that doing things in the old way keeps the regulars coming back,” said Lee. “It is fun to try new things once in a while, but these recipes are not going anywhere.”
Golden Chopsticks can be found in the Holly Hills shopping center at 3846 St. Mary’s road in Columbus. They are open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Saturday. Vegetarian options are available, and no reservations are needed.
